Due to the small size of the Red Cherry Shrimp baby the quality of the photographs is low. However, given the importance of the photographs I would say these are some of the best photos anywhere of such a unique event. The quality of what was taken far surpasses any qualms due to the lack of quality of the actual photograph.

Photos are in chronological order. Each sequence contains a photo that shows the actual shot, the other highlights the hatching in the same shot. The hatching occurs within seconds, yes seconds. Click each photo for a larger image.

Photo One: Here you can see the egg first appear with the eyes beginning to emerge. The egg is being released from the brood at the end of the tail. Somehow the female knows that an egg is hatching and will actually “kick out” the egg/hatchling.

Photo One

Photo One Highlighted: Baby Emerging

Photo Two: The hatchling is then released from the brood and the nearly transparent tail of the hatchling begins to emerge. You can still see the yellow of the egg still attached to the hatchling.

Photo Two

Photo Two Highlighted: Tail Visible

Photo Three: The tail further emerges as does the rest of the hatchling. I am sure that if we could get a more detailed shot we would see other parts of the hatchling emerging as well. This all takes a matter of seconds.

Photo Three

Photo Three Highlighted: Tail Further Visible

Photo Four: Finally the fully emerged baby shrimp latches onto a piece of moss. Notice the yellow egg is completely gone as the baby is officially on its own. One cool thing to notice is that the eyes do not eppear fully developed. The eyes are actually bulging/bloated. Perhaps the newborn shrimp is unable to see for a certain period of time until the eyes develop completely. It would be interesting to document the full development cycle of a baby to adult with the same shrimp.

Photo Four

Photo Four Highlighted: Lone Shrimplet

source from: planetinverts

The three photos are in chronological order.

source from: planetinverts

Red cherry shrimp, or RCS, are in a group called “dwarf shrimp”. The adults can reach up to 1.5 inches (4cm) in length. RCS need no special tanks, foods, dances, or shamans to breed. Tank conditions are easy to set up. They are a fun addition to an aquarium and eat uneaten fish food.

Steps

source from: wikihow

I thought I’d take a little time to talk about what has worked for me. I got into the hobby a little over a year ago and found this site and a few others and quickly became interested in freshwater shrimp. I bought my first batch of 10 cherry shrimp and 10 amano shrimp and rest is history.

It wasn’t until my second batch of cherry shrimp before I realized how easy they were to breed. My second purchase contained a pregnant female and she ended up having the babies in a small pint cup when I was moving her into her permanent home.

I started with a 10 gallon tank with various plant clippings from my main 65g tank and I noticed more and baby shrimp each week. I soon had nearly 100 and I ended up giving some away and selling some to other hobbists.

I set up a 20 gallon planted tank and moved a bunch of the shrimp into it and now I have successfully bred nearly 1,000 very nicely colored cherry shrimp.

Here is what has worked for me and what I suggest for other people if they want to try their hand at breeding cherry shrimp.

1. Tank size should be at least 10 gallons to support up to 100-150 shrimp (based on weekly 30% water changes).
2. Temp should be between 75-78F.
3. Moderate water hardness seems to work the best for robust breeding and coloration.
4. I highly recommend the addition of live plants to maintain good water quality.
5. Sponge filters are the best since they do not pose a danger to baby shrimp.
6. PH of 7.6 has worked well for me.
7. Keep up with water changes! Cherry shrimp are highly prone to nitrate poisoning and they need good water to maintain good health and molting. I do weekly 30% water changes. I use plain tap water (moderate hardness, PH 7.6) and I treat it with declorinator (Amquel).
8. I use full spectrum lighting…10 hours a day on a timer.
9. I DO NOT dose liquid iodine as the shrimp will get all they need from a proper diet.
10. I feed them HBH Vegetable Wafers and HBC Crab & Lobster Bites exclusively. Any invertebrate food will suffice as long as it does not contain any large amounts of copper (READ those labels!). I will occasionally drop in a piece of boiled vegetable (squash or spinach). I feed my shrimp once a day in small amounts.
11. I also recommend you maintain genetic diversity after a few generations of breeding. You can easily do this by introducing new cherry shrimp from other sources. This helps reduce the occurance of inbred deformities or weak shrimp. I have traded shrimp with other hobbist a few times.

source from: plantedtank

Since their introduction into the aquarium trade back in 2003, red cherry shrimp (RCS) have become increasingly popular. What more could you look for in a freshwater invertebrate? They are colorful, sociable, peaceful, easy to keep, breed easily, and they eat algae and lots of it—all without harming your plants. In fact, some reports suggest they eat more forms of algae (even the dreaded hair algae) than other shrimp, including the popular Amano shrimp Caridina japonica.

RCS can also be very entertaining to watch. In fact, at my place of work I have a 12-gallon heavily planted tank that features about 20 RCS as its main inhabitants along with six cardinal tetras. I refer to the shrimp tank as the new office water cooler. Many of my co-workers regularly stop by to see the shrimp’s latest antics and gather around the tank. To relate a brief funny story, one of my co-workers who is fascinated by the shrimp was prohibited from having a tank at her desk; it was felt she would waste too much time watching the shrimp instead of working. If you are willing to meet a few basic requirements, you too can enjoy their antics. Let’s start with a little background on the RCS.

RCS are actually a red color variation or mutation of the dwarf shrimp Neocaridina denticulata sinensis. The wild form of this shrimp originates in Taiwan, parts of China, and Vietnam. The beautiful red variety of this shrimp was developed and bred in Taiwan and does not occur naturally in the wild.

These dwarf shrimp are just that—a small shrimp species. Adults grow to approximately 1 to 1¼ inches long, with the females being larger than the males. Female RCS are also much brighter red than their male counterparts, especially when sexually mature. The males, in addition to being slightly smaller with a slimmer mid section, are a more clear color with red striping. So, as they get mature it is very easy to distinguish between the sexes. Their life expectancy is approximately two years.

RCS do not require large tanks. A standard 10-gallon tank or one of the very popular nano tanks will work well, although larger is always better in order to maintain a more stable environment. While easy to care for, as with most shrimp they can be sensitive. Excellent water quality is a must. A cycled tank is necessary to get your shrimp off to a good start.

In my experience with RCS, if good water conditions are met they will prove to be remarkably adaptable concerning water parameters. They can adapt to a wide range in both temperature and pH. For temperature, keep your RCS between 70° and 80°F. I have personally gotten the best results maintaining them in the mid 70s. Regarding pH, the range is even bigger than temperature. They have been successfully maintained in a pH from 6.5 to 8.0, although I have found they do better in a neutral to slightly higher pH.

While they may adapt well to a wide range of certain water parameters, they will not tolerate ammonia or nitrite in their water. In fact, they will begin to die off if either of these spike—hence the need for regular maintenance, including testing and water changes. I perform a weekly 10-percent water change, being careful to not siphon up any shrimp in the process.

As far as filtration goes, almost any kind of filter will work. However keep in mind their small size. Baby shrimp—and small adults for that matter—could easily be sucked into the intake of a power or canister filter. I would recommend placing a piece of fine mesh, sponge, or even an old pantyhose over the intake to protect your shrimp.

RCS make a great addition to a planted tank; in fact, they seem to thrive in such an environment. While eating almost every kind of algae in the tank, they will do no damage to your live plants. Their bright red colors will really stand out against a backdrop of different greens in a planted tank. In this type of tank your shrimp will be very active, constantly foraging for food.

RCS seem to live in a colony, even “playing” together. One of the most entertaining things that the shrimp do is something that it appears only the males do. They will glide or surf across the tank, and it almost appears as if there is a little alien flying around in your tank. In general, it appears that the males are more active than the females.

RCS are omnivorous. Simply put, they will eat almost anything. In a well-planted tank they will almost always have something to eat. However, it is wise to supplement their normal diet of algae with other types of food.

They will readily accept most types of fish food, whether it be flake, frozen, or pellet. My RCS particularly love algae wafers, which seem to draw them like a magnet. You can also occasionally offer veggies like spinach or zucchini, making sure to blanch them to make it easier for them to eat. Make sure to remove any uneaten food so they don’t rot and adversely affect your water quality.

The red color of your shrimp is directly related to environment, stress level, sexual maturity, and diet. By offering a well-balanced and varied diet you will help to ensure your shrimp show their best.

When choosing tankmates for your RCS, a little common sense is in order. While these shrimp are peaceful and would never harm your fish, there is no guarantee that the fish won’t harm them. Due to the tiny size of these shrimp, select carefully any fish you place in the same tank. Small tetras, rasboras, and other non-aggressive small fish should be fine.

While these shrimp are incredibly fast, keep in mind that if they can fit into the mouths of your fish then those fish are not good tankmates—you would just be providing your fish with expensive little snacks.

As I mentioned, I have a community tank with RCS and cardinal tetras, and I have never had any problems. However, if you have any interest in breeding your shrimp, then an RCS-dedicated tank is the best way to go. The tiny baby shrimp will prove to be too much of a temptation for even the smallest of fish.

If you provide the correct water conditions and a well-balanced diet, breeding your RCS is really just a matter of letting nature take its course. Purchasing between 10 and 20 shrimp from different sources will ensure a good breeding colony with a strong gene pool.

RCS reach sexual maturity between two and three months of age. At this time you will notice the females developing a deeper red color. Look closely at your females; you will begin to see them carry approximately 10 to 30 eggs that appear yellow in color. They will carry these eggs between three and five weeks. Unlike some other species of shrimp, with RCS there is no intermediate plankton stage. The eggs will hatch into miniature versions of the adults, and the shrimplets will eat the same diet as the adults.

I have not noticed any cannibalism with the parents eating the babies. As long as they can’t be sucked into your filter and there are no fish to eat them, you will have a growing population with almost no effort on your part. In a community planted tank with fish, a few of the shrimplets will survive, being able to hide until they are big enough to not be in any danger. However, it is best to have a species tank in order to raise the most shrimp.

Now to offer a few words of caution in order to ensure the health of your RCS. In my opinion these shrimp do their best in a planted tank. If you are using CO₂ in your planted tank as I do, be careful that your pH does not drop too low. If you are using an automatic CO₂ system with a pH controller this may not be an issue for you. However, since most hobbyists will be keeping their shrimp in smaller tanks, it is more than likely you will be using some form of DIY system or natural fermentation system, since it may not be practical—or should I say cost effective—to use an automatic system on small tank. Regular testing will help to prevent any potential problems.

RCS can also be very sensitive to the use of chemicals. You should not use any fish medications in your shrimp tank. This is especially true with copper, which is lethal to invertebrates. RCS are also sensitive to chlorine and chloramines; make sure you use a quality dechlorinator if using tap water. In my planted tanks I have used plant fertilizers without any problems, so I see no reason to withhold their use. I would, however, be very careful in their use and be sure you do not overdose.

If you find what appears to be shrimp skeletons in your tank do not be alarmed. Your shrimp aren’t dead, they have just molted. As your shrimp grow they will regularly shed their outer shell. I have observed my shrimp eating these shells.

RCS are becoming increasingly available at pet stores. You can also purchase them online from many different sources. Look for younger, small shrimp, as they ship much better than older ones. They may not have great color at this stage, but be patient and they will color up for you soon enough.

If you observe a few basic guidelines and maintain good water quality you will find keeping RCS is rather simple. So why not set up an RCS tank or add them to your planted tank? I’m sure you will be entertained by them.

source from: tfhmagazine

Please note that this guide refers to the keeping of freshwater shrimp.
Can I Keep Shrimp?
If you want to keep shrimp, ask yourself these few questions:
-Is my tank fully cycled and mature?
-Will the shrimp be harassed or eaten by their tank mates?
-Have I ever used copper-based medications in my tank?
-Do I understand that shrimp are sensitive to changes in the water chemistry?

Basic Shrimp Information
True shrimp are decapod(ten legged) crustaceans in the infrorder Caridea, and are related to crabs, lobsters, crayfish, and prawns. The freshwater shrimp commonly kept by hobbyists are usually in either the families Atyidae or Palaemonidae.

Generally, the first two pairs of legs have claws(chelipeds) and the next three are used for walking(pereiopods). There are also an additional five limbs used for swimming and, in the females, holding the developing eggs(pleopods). A shrimp’s head has five pairs of appendages; The antennae and antennules used for smell, touch, and detecting water movement; The mandibles that are used to chew food and the first and second maxillae used to hold and position food. Shrimp also have a pair of compound eyes. See here for a more detailed look at shrimp anatomy.

The shrimp kept by hobbyists are usually omnivores, and will eat anything offered. Some shrimp are capable of catching and eating a sick or injured fish, or even other shrimp, so it is important that research be done on any new additions.

All shrimp will molt. During this time it is vital not to disturb the shrimp. After molting shrimp are soft and easily damaged until they harden, which takes about 24 hours.

Basic Shrimp Care
Shrimp are remarkably adaptable little fellows, and they can be kept in nearly any parameters minus the extremes. Most are best kept at ph 6-8, temp 60F-80F. They must be kept in a fully cycled tank, as they are sensitive to ammonia and nitrite as with any creature we keep in tanks. The tank must also be sufficiently aerated as shrimp are also sensitive to low levels of oxygen. The tank size is best kept over 5 gallons(US) for the small species, 10 for the larger species, and at least 30 for the shrimp that feed with fans. Please make another note: Some shrimp species may have different environmental requirements. The stats given here will work for many of them but research should always be done before you purchase.

If you have ever used a copper-based chemical in the tank you plan to put shrimp in you may be unable to keep most invertebrates. I suggest adding some ghost shrimp if you have used copper, and if they die the tank is unsuitable for shrimp. You may be able to make the tank safe for shrimp again by adding copper removing media to your filter or changing substrates.

If you use a HOB or canister filter place a sponge over the filter’s intake. Shrimp can be easily sucked into a filter and killed. If they are not sucked in they can become stuck to the intake and be injured. The filter will lose some flow but it’s better for the shrimp!

Suitable Tankmates
If you are keeping the shrimp with fish, consider the shrimp’s size. Would you put a fish of that size in with the fish you currently have? If you would worry then the tank is not suitable for shrimp. Even if you do feel safe, would the shrimp have enough hiding places to retreat to? Are the fish that will be with it known fin-nippers? Fish can easily kill a shrimp in the process of molting, even if they can’t consume it whole. Suitable tank-mates are the common livebearers, otos, most small plecos, among other things. Just use common sense.

Other invertebrates are great ideas for tankmates, as they share nearly the same requirements. Snails are a good option. Crabs, crayfish, and some prawns are not a good idea as they can potentially consume the shrimp.

Note: Most fish will eat baby shrimp. If you want most of the shrimplets to survive you should not keep the shrimp with fish. Only fish like otos will leave them alone.

Shrimp Feeding
Shrimp are very easy to feed. Sinking wafers and pellets will be taken with relish. Bloodworms can be fed as a treat. The food should be algae based, preferably. Basically, shrimp will eat whatever you would feed a bottom-feeding fish. Please note, however that shrimp eat much less than your average fish, and you should be careful not to overfeed.
Shrimp Breeding
Shrimp reproduce in several ways, but can usually be divided into two methods; The ‘primitive’ method and the ‘advanced’ method. In the primitive method the eggs hatch and the larvae are released. Depending on the species, the larvae go through a number of stages before becoming benthic(ground dwelling) juvenile shrimp. These larvae are usually carried downstream to brackish waters or even the sea, so breeding these shrimp is difficult. In the advanced method the shrimp hatch as tiny versions of the adults, and thus these shrimp are very easy to breed. There are also shrimp that have an abbreviated larval stage, and thus are also easy to breed.

The ‘advanced’ breeding shrimp(and those with an abbreviated larval stage) are usually very easy to breed. Simply keep males and females together and you will notice baby shrimp after a while. Baby shrimp feed on the micro-organisms that exist in the tank and will also eat what you feed the adults. If you want to see increased survival rates plant some moss in the tank. The moss will harbor large amounts of these micro-organisms.

The ‘primitive’ breeding shrimp are very difficult to breed. Good guides about breeding the species with larvae that require brackish/saltwater can be found here andhere. Those with freshwater larval stages are easier to raise.

Shrimp for the beginner
Ghost/Glass/Grass/River shrimp
Palaemonetes sp.
Size: 1-2 inches(females a bit larger)
Ph: 6.5-8
Temp: 60F-78F
Breeding: Primitive(may be abbreviated depending on species)
Ghost shrimp are transparent, easy to care for shrimp frequently sold as live food. Several species are sold under the name Ghost(pictured is P. paludosus, very common in the US), and thus it is a good idea to to get an id on them. Sometimes Macrobrachium shrimp are sold as Ghosts.

Cherry shrimp
Neocaridina heteropoda (previously N. denticulata sinensis)
Size: 1-1.2 inches(females are larger)
Ph: 6-7.5
Temp: 60F-78F
Breeding: Advanced
Cherry shrimp are red, easy to breed shrimp. They are a good shrimp for a beginner. Also come in a Yellow color morph.

Amano shrimp
Caridina multidentata (previously C. japonica)
Size: 1.5-2 inches(females larger)
Ph: 6-7.5
Temp: 60F-80F
Breeding: Primitive
Amano shrimp are great at eating algae, and are commonly kept in planted aquaria because of this. May eat moss if no other food is available.

Tiger Shrimp
Caridina cf. cantonensis
Size: 1-1.2 inches(females larger)
Ph: 6.5-7.5
Temp: 60F-78F
Breeding: Advanced
Tiger shrimp are great little fellows, and are similar to cherries in behavior. Come in a blue color morph and a red striped morph(these are harder to keep). Prefer softer waters but will be fine in most conditions.

Snowball Shrimp
Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis
Size: 1-1.2 inches(females larger)
Ph: 6.5-7.5
Temp: 60F-78F
Breeding: Advanced
Snowball shrimp are white shrimp. Get their name from their white eggs. A good alternative to cherries for a beginning shrimp, just more expensive.

Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can X fish go with shrimp?
A: Does X fish have a large mouth, or does it eat invertebrates in the wild? Would you trust it with a fish the size of a shrimp? You need to use common sense with this.

Q: Do shrimp eat plants?
A: Most shrimp will only eat a dead or dying plant. You should do research on the species you wish to keep beforehand. Also note that some plants may have been treated with chemicals to kill snails, so you should rinse them very well beforehand.

Q: Can fertilizers be used in a tank with shrimp?
A: Yes, so long as the fertilizer does not have copper in it.

Q: How big do shrimp get?
A: This varies from species to species. Your average shrimp will usually be from 1-2inches. An exception are the fan-feeding shrimp, which can get quite large.

Q: Will shrimp eat fish?
A: Your average shrimp are not active predators. They will consume a dead fish, however. Do research on what you plan to buy beforehand.

Q: Can I give my shrimp fresh vegetables?
A: Of course! Shrimp love veggies of all kinds. Suggested foods are cucumbers, broccoli, and spinach leaves. Wash them beforehand as they might have pesticides on them.

Q: How long should I leave food in the tank?
A: Shrimp are slow eaters. Give it about 3 hours or sooner if they seem disinterested. It can be left in longer if they are still eating.

Q: My shrimp died!
A: Are you sure? It may be a shed exoskeleton, which look exactly like the shrimp. Is there still flesh in the shrimp? If it is a shedding, leave it in the tank. The shrimp will consume it to regain lost nutrients.

Final Note
This guide is for use only by the Tropical Fish Forums. Some of the information may be incorrect, so if you see anything please let me know!

source from: fishforums

When setting up a tank for the red cherry shrimp, you can go as low as a 1 gallon tank. Just make sure you have some type of filtration. Your water conditions should be stable for the red cherry shrimp to live a healthly life.

The red cherry shrimp is an omnivore. They are scavengers and decent algae eaters. They will mainly graze on live plants and clean up the floor of your aquarium.

Did you know? The color variation of the red cherry shrimp was originally bred in Germany and then appeared in the United States in the late 1990′s? Sweet!

Red Cherry Shrimp Care

Scientific Name: Neocaridina denticulate sinenis “red”
Common Names: Cherry Shrimp, Red Cherry Shrimp.
Natural Habitat: Taiwan.
Care Level: They are easy and great for a freshwater beginner with a small tank!
Adult Size: 3 cm.
Life span: It varies, usually 1-2 years.
Water Temperature: 70°F-80°F
Water pH: 7 – 8
Behavior: Very Peaceful.
Tank Size: 1 gallon and up.
Tank Mates: Cherry Shrimp are best kept with peaceful community shrimp. Do not mix with large aggressive fish because they will get eaten.
Tank Region: Bottom of the tank, but will climb on plants.
Gender: Females are more red and the males are clear.

source from:  wereallwet

Fish Fin rot is a bacterial disease that commonly affects aquarium fish. Fin rot is also a disease that can easily be prevented by maintaining correct care for the fish and at the same time very easily caused by incorrect care, such as, bad water conditions and injury, one way or the other. Fraying or torn fins, enflamed fin base and, if not treated in time, the fin rotting away are symptoms of this disease. White may appear on the affected parts which is generally bacteria. As the disease advances the fins will get notably shorter, becoming red and enflamed along with bloody patches.

What Causes Fish Fin Rot?

Poor water conditions are the main causes for this disease. The stress from bullying and fins being nipped by other fish resulting in injury are also common reasons for finrot. Over crowding, over feeding, lack of weekly water changes and decaying matter are some other reasons for bad water conditions. Aggressive tank mates, generally, the larger fish and fish that are famous for nipping can result in fighting and nipping, whereas injury is sure to follow. Sharp edged decorations can tear and injure fish and their fins. Fish seem to enjoy water changes but skittish fish dashing against the decorations and sides of the tank can cause injury, so gentle water changes are in order.

How do I Treat Fish Fin Rot?

Maintaining proper care is vital for a healthy aquarium. Weekly water changes, monitoring the water chemistry (nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH) as well as checking for decaying plants, food etc should be done at least once a week. When introducing new fish, be sure to observe that they are settling in nicely and that there is no aggression. Quarantining new fish is recommended for easier observation for disease. Treatment has to be applied before the disease reaches the fish’s body as this will lead to death.

When fin rot is detected check that your water conditions are in order. A 50% water change should be made and the rest of the fish should be checked for any signs of the disease. The affected fish should be removed and put into another tank and treated separately. Most medications recommend not doing water changes during treatment so a 50% water change before starting is advised. The temperature should be raised to 80-82′F (26-27′C) and the water kept extra clean. After the treatment another 50% water change must be made to help clear the medicine and thereafter 10-15% every other day for a week while monitoring the fish. According to our knowledge the use of the following medicines will help cure the disease. Maracyn, Maracyn II, Waterlife- Myxazin, MelaFix, and for betta’s Bettafix. Alternatively the use of Methylene Blue too can be used. 1 Drop per 2 gallons of aquarium water is our choice. While treating with Methylene Blue, a 50% water change every other day for a week is recommended, the main reason being, as mentioned before, clean water is essential and helps with the healing. When using Methylene Blue be sure not spill any as it stains.

Treatment should always be carried out to completion and affected fish observed.

Source : fishlore

One of the first things you need to do is figure out what fish you want to keep. This will influence the size and number of tanks you’ll need. You also need to figure out how you will fit the tanks in your room and how you’re going to service them. What about filters and heat? What about moisture in the room? These are all questions you may need help with. Everyone has their own idea of a system – some work, some sort of work and others fail miserably. All I can do is offer some assistance. I am now building my third fish room and have seen many more. Over time I have mentally collected ideas from what I’ve seen and worked them into my new room. I would still do things different next time!

Tanks
You can never have enough tanks, that’s for sure. Some tanks are just not suitable for the fish being kept. For example, angel pairs don’t do well in 15 gallon tanks. 15′s just don’t have the height, 20′s are better. 10 gallon tanks work great for livebearers. They can house crops of fry and sexes and strains.

I find that cost wise, 33 gallon tanks are a great deal. You can buy new ones for under $50 each (new) or find used ones for around $30. They hold a good amount of fish and are easy to work with.10′s go for about $11 new and 5′s go for about the same. Anything bigger than a 33 starts getting a little pricey. Some brands of tanks can also be better than others. Try a few of each brand and then fill your room with the ones you like the best! So if you stay in the 5 – 33 range, you can fill your room with a small investment.

Stands
There are lots of plans out there for different styles. I like using a 3 tier set-up. Some fish shy away from being at ground level (e.g. Discus), but most do fine. I like to keep the top row of tanks at a reachable height. Also leave enough space above rows so you can work in the tanks (netting, water changes). I put my biggest tanks on the bottom and work my way up to smaller tanks on top.

Filtration
This can be very tricky or very simple, it all depends on what you want. I’m sure you’re quite up to date on all the filters and filtration techniques out there. Your decision will be based on how many tanks you are going to run and how much extra money you have to burn!!

If you want to save money or keep production costs down, invest in a blower/sponge system. These systems are cheap to create. A blower will cost you about $500 – $800 depending on how many tanks you want to run. All the airlines and hose will be around $150, and you can make 100 sponge filters for about $250. With the sponge system, you have more media space than most other filters offer. The only down side is that you have to manually remove any solid waste. The good side is that you can have higher stocking densities.

Another good system is re-circ. This can be complicated to set-up and is very particular to the person who is designing it. I am currently designing a system and look forward to working out the bugs.

Heat
I suggest heating the room and not individual tanks. The heaters alone can cost a fortune! Heating the room sounds expensive, but if you make good use of the heat it’s actually quite efficient!!

Room Equipment
Be sure to invest some time and money into your room. Insulate it well, and paint it with a good sealing paint (oil based). You’ll want to install an exhaust fan with a humidistat, so that it turns on at the desired setting. You should also install your heater on a thermostat as well. This will automate your room environment. While you’re at it, throw all your lights on timers. This will keep your room in good shape for a few years.

I won’t try to avoid the subject – moisture is very hard on your room. Please don’t use rooms inside living quarters. It’s very hard on occupants, especially those with allergies!! If you want to get rid of excess moisture, invest in a dehumidifier – they do work. If you keep good lids on your tanks, water loss will be minimal.

Source : aquarticles

Read the Manual! The manual may not be exciting or may have more technical information than you are interested in reading, but it cannot be stressed enough how important it is to read the manual in order to familiarize yourself with the unit you purchased.

Mount your fish finder. Whether you are using a transom mount, trolling motor mount, hull mount or a portable mount, your manual will be able to walk you through the steps to properly mount your model. If in doubt, consult a professional or have a professional mount it for you.

Turn on your fishfinder. When you first turn the unit on, it will be in automatic mode, meaning that the pre-programmed settings will be in use. As you become more familiar with your model, you will be able to switch to manual mode and customize the settings to the fishing conditions you experience. To begin, leave the fishfinder on automatic and take a five minute spin around the lake, bay or ocean that you fish in. Watch the display constantly to get a feel for what you see. Don’t worry about catching fish or understanding everything on the display yet. That will come with experience.

Now start adjusting one feature at a time and become familiar with that feature. One of the key settings to play around with is the Sensitivity setting. When you adjust the unit’s sensitivity you are adjusting the power of the fish finder. The simple rule of thumb is, the lower the power (sensitivity) the lower the quality of the view on the display. Start by setting the sensitivity to between 75 and 100%. Trial and error will be the best way to determine the optimal setting for your model.

The next setting to visit in manual mode, is the Fish ID setting. Once you have a feel for your unit, turn off the Fish ID feature and try to get used to reading the fish arches that you will see naturally on the screen. The fish icons displayed by the Fish ID are useful for true beginners, but once you begin to familiarize yourself with the display it is better to learn how to read the natural fish arches. The fish arches will give you a more accurate view of what is under water.

Another feature, Auto Depth, is best used at its pre-programmed setting as you begin using your fishfinder. Using the pre-programmed setting will tell the unit to automatically track the bottom and is best used when you are new to using sonar. As you become more of an expert, you can manually set the upper and lower limits of the display window. The smaller the display window you set the better the resolution will be. In general, expert anglers eliminate the top few feet of water and stop the scan about ten feet below the true bottom. The display window size will of course vary depending on how deep the water is and what type of fish you are looking to catch. Experiment with the display window size until you are comfortable with both the amount of water you can view and the picture resolution.

As you are becoming more and more familiar with your fish finder, you will notice a horizontal line across the screen. This line is the Depth Cursor and can be moved up or down on the display. When you find some fish, adjust the depth cursor to cut through the fish arches and the unit will tell you exactly how deep those fish are. Now you know exactly how deep to drop your bait.

One last feature to touch on in this article is the suppressor setting. This setting tells the unit how much “back ground” noise to filter out. Eliminating the back ground noise may be helpful, but if your transducer is mounted properly it is generally unnecessary. If you find you have to use the suppressor to locate fish, then you should check that your transducer is mounted correctly. In general you want to have the suppressor off as having the suppressor setting too high can block the sonar signal entirely and you won’t find fish that way!

Source : wikihow